A few weeks back we found ourselves in New Orleans for a weekend. It was French Quarter Fest, but we were there for a wedding. We were only there for a few days, so we had fairly little time that wasn't structured or spoken for. As a result we really couldn't get out of the French Quarter while we were there, and what follows is from only that point of view.
The town felt crowded to me, and apparently exists on tourism revenue alone. I am not a big fan of crowds, so I am glad we didn't find ourselves there during Mardi Gras, or something similar, where the crowds are - I think - much larger.
French Quarter Fest is a big, free music show, with quite a few stages set up around town, in addition to the various existing music venues that were also participating. And that music was a good thing, though after a while the traditional jazz bands were starting to sound very similar. Still, we could walk just a couple of blocks and encounter some new group playing something different if we got tired of the group we were listening to. We heard biggish bands, a middle school band, and a bunch of things in between. The music was the best part of the city in my opinion.
And of course, in addition to all the music on the stages, there were the various street performers. Quite a few jazz bands, as well as a number of smaller groups, more than a few human statues, some magicians, a transformer (honestly... watch the video), a bunch of artists selling their work, and more than a few barkers for various businesses. (Huge Ass Beers, anyone?)
Everyone raves about the food in New Orleans, and we did eat reasonably well, but only if your definition of "reasonably well" includes "dramatically increasing your chances of dying from a heart attack or stroke if you stay on this diet for more than a couple of days." And given our hotel was a block or two from the French Quarter, and the number of times we were woken up by ambulances in the middle of the night, it is pretty clear a fair number of people in the city were succumbing to various - possibly diet related - medical emergencies. A look at the people attending FQF supported that suggestion, if you get my drift.
But if that was all I had to say about New Orleans I wouldn't have written this post. Sadly there were a number of things I found problematic in The Big Easy, and those are what I really want to mention.
Some simplistic research on hurricane Katrina tells me that the French Quarter was not severely damaged or flooded during that event. There was some wind damage, and a bit of flooding, but apparently it wasn't too bad. However, looking at the French Quarter today I would have thought it had been flooded out.
Streets and sidewalks are uneven at best, and a serious hazard in general. Buildings - and the famous iron balconies - sag in obvious ways. Any steel or iron that hasn't recently been painted is rusted. In short, the French Quarter is decaying right before our eyes. On top of that was a nearly omnipresent stink of sewage - I think - which I found particularly distressing while we were attempting to pick a restaurant. There was always water pooled in sidewalk damage and potholes, but it didn't rain while we were there. Perhaps that was the source of the odor?
And walking down Bourbon Street was, well, fairly offensive. I guess the various strip clubs and what-not have all set up shop there, and I understand that's part of what New Orleans is famous for, but it was all so run down and ugly that it actually felt awful. Nothing struck me as upbeat, or a place where a dancer, bartender, or bouncer might go to get a break, even if they were doing something less than desirable in the eyes of society. Instead it felt like the run down, disreputable end of the city, where people wind up when they have no choice. I avoided Bourbon Street after I figured out how I felt about it.
And then there were the people. There, too, I saw decay and degradation, as well as the PR side of things that the town wants you to see.
How many homeless do you need to see sleeping in doorways? How many kids who should be in school but were instead out tap dancing to earn a few bucks? How many obvious health problems - obesity being the easiest to spot - are straining Louisiana's health care budget?
Yes, there were happy and healthy people. I have no idea how many were locals as opposed to visitors for FQF, but there are definitely health and homelessness problems in New Orleans that are difficult to address. Interestingly, though, nearly all of the people I talked to who actually worked there - in the restaurants and hotels - left me with the impression they would like to leave town, or were already planning on it. Perhaps two felt differently, but honestly it seemed like people who live there want to leave.
And after a while, walking down the streets and seeing the leaning, decrepit buildings felt a lot like passing the homeless people sleeping in doorways. The empty shop windows - and there were more than a few of those - had a similar impact. The whole place felt physically dirty - like it could be scrubbed with bleach for decades and never get clean - and more than a bit desperate.
By the time Sunday rolled around I was glad to be getting on a plane and going home.
Of course there are problems in every town, and maybe the Central Business District or the Garden District are in better shape than the French Quarter. I didn't get there, so I don't know, and I shouldn't judge an entire town based on such a small sample of what it has to offer.
But then again, it seems - based on my admittedly skewed view of the world - that New Orleans puts the French Quarter on a pedestal. It's the place people go to have fun, the home of Mardi Gras. I can't help but feel that it ought to be more attractive than it is. Better maintained. Healthier. Less downtrodden.
So now I've been to New Orleans, and I really don't feel a need to go back. I know people who love it there, and I can see there is history to be learned and a culture to understand, but it wasn't a place that I felt comfortable. The people were friendly - and even welcoming - but it just didn't feel like a place I would want to call home.
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Monday, May 5, 2014
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Reactions To Coming Home
As we neared home on our recent trip I found myself noting what I was thinking and comparing that with how the dogs were reacting. Yes, it was totally silly, but it was amusing.
I, for example, was worried. All the worst possible things go through my mind. What if the house has burned down and no one called to tell us? What if someone broke in and robbed us blind while we were gone? What if someone is doing that just as we arrive? Yes, I suppose these things are possible, but they don't merit concern until you discover they have happened, and why the heck do I only worry about them as we approach home, instead of for the entire two weeks we've been gone? I worry about them none the less. In some ways I am a compulsive worrier.
Then, as we get closer and we're on roads I drive often enough to know well, I start noting the things haven't changed. We were only gone two weeks, but I still have to note that "the store is still there, right where it was when we left." I try not to voice these idiocies out loud (google "My you're very tall" in The Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy by Douglas Adams for why not) but they do run through my head. What kind of neurosis is that?
Dogs, on the other hand, are a lot simpler in their reactions.
Having spent almost three days in the car, they are tired of it and want a change. Our older dog - Leah - started sitting up nearly an hour from the house. Something must have smelled right as it was dark by then and there wasn't much to see. Still, she was alert to our arrival early on, even before we were on roads she knows from experience. She watched out the windows and then pushed in to sit between the front seats and look forward as we hit familiar roads.
Danno, our younger (and dumber) dog, was mostly oblivious until we were only about fifteen minutes from home. It was probably only after he picked up on something from Leah's actions that he, too, had to sit up and pay attention.
Both dogs exuded a kind of calm anticipation at this point. They knew what was coming and looked forward to it, but there wasn't much celebration yet. Some years ago a similar return home with Leah included barking with happiness for the last four miles. I guess age - she's roughly ten - has mellowed her.
Once the car actually stops, of course, both dogs are dying to get into the house and back into territory they actually know. The excitement is profound, though still relatively quiet. By then, however, my own anticipation is basically over. The house is still there, unchanged, and what faces me are the tasks that go with arriving at home: turn on the water heater, start the heat pump, unpack the stuff we have to have tonight, and so on. I'm already in task mode while the dogs are romping and enjoying the return of familiar surroundings.
All of this only goes to show that our dogs are smarter than me, at least. My wife would tell you that's an obvious conclusion.
I, for example, was worried. All the worst possible things go through my mind. What if the house has burned down and no one called to tell us? What if someone broke in and robbed us blind while we were gone? What if someone is doing that just as we arrive? Yes, I suppose these things are possible, but they don't merit concern until you discover they have happened, and why the heck do I only worry about them as we approach home, instead of for the entire two weeks we've been gone? I worry about them none the less. In some ways I am a compulsive worrier.
Then, as we get closer and we're on roads I drive often enough to know well, I start noting the things haven't changed. We were only gone two weeks, but I still have to note that "the store is still there, right where it was when we left." I try not to voice these idiocies out loud (google "My you're very tall" in The Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy by Douglas Adams for why not) but they do run through my head. What kind of neurosis is that?
Dogs, on the other hand, are a lot simpler in their reactions.
Having spent almost three days in the car, they are tired of it and want a change. Our older dog - Leah - started sitting up nearly an hour from the house. Something must have smelled right as it was dark by then and there wasn't much to see. Still, she was alert to our arrival early on, even before we were on roads she knows from experience. She watched out the windows and then pushed in to sit between the front seats and look forward as we hit familiar roads.
Danno, our younger (and dumber) dog, was mostly oblivious until we were only about fifteen minutes from home. It was probably only after he picked up on something from Leah's actions that he, too, had to sit up and pay attention.
Both dogs exuded a kind of calm anticipation at this point. They knew what was coming and looked forward to it, but there wasn't much celebration yet. Some years ago a similar return home with Leah included barking with happiness for the last four miles. I guess age - she's roughly ten - has mellowed her.
Once the car actually stops, of course, both dogs are dying to get into the house and back into territory they actually know. The excitement is profound, though still relatively quiet. By then, however, my own anticipation is basically over. The house is still there, unchanged, and what faces me are the tasks that go with arriving at home: turn on the water heater, start the heat pump, unpack the stuff we have to have tonight, and so on. I'm already in task mode while the dogs are romping and enjoying the return of familiar surroundings.
All of this only goes to show that our dogs are smarter than me, at least. My wife would tell you that's an obvious conclusion.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Two More Trip Pictures - One With A Question
Some worried about road conditions while we were on our recent trip. In truth, the roads were mostly fine. We hit a few snow flurries, but nothing heavy in terms of new snowfall. Worse, though, was blowing snow, particularly in Wyoming. Anne drew the short straw for the worst case of blowing snow. The picture below shows a mild case of what we were dealing with... 45 MPH wind gusts and a fair amount of snow can make for an awful mess on the road. As I say, though, this picture is a less severe instance of the problem:
This next picture leads to a question I've had for something like 15 years, since the first time we did this drive:
What are those groups of three marks in the right lane? They span what might be expansion joints in the pavement, and each group of three appears roughly where the tires of vehicles in that lane would be. I only see these in Wyoming and a bit in Nebraska. Just once this trip I saw a similar things with groups of four similar marks.
I haven't been able to figure out what these marks are for, but they've been on I80 in Wyoming for a long time. If anyone knows, please drop me an email and explain it to me. Thanks!
Monday, January 4, 2010
Holiday Excursion
I'm back from our semi-regular holiday excursion. At odd intervals we pack ourselves and our dogs into a car and drive from our home in the San Francisco Bay Area to Chicago to visit family. To many this sounds insane, particularly when done during the middle of Winter. For us, though, it's the only way to do it that makes sense.
Gas, hotels, and food for the trip winds up costing a bit over $1000 the way we do it. (It's 2250 miles one way, and while I'd love to do it in a more fuel efficient vehicle, our Honda Element is the one that can haul us, two big dogs, and our stuff. Our 2000 Insight could do it for a less than half the gas used by the Element but there's no room for the dogs in there.) Anyway, we make the trip in three days, weather permitting, and thus stay in two hotels in either direction.
Now, imagine purchasing two tickets from SFO to ORD, renting a car, and kenneling two dogs for that same duration. The total cost is a lot more than driving. Heck, just kenneling costs more than our entire trip.
And for those who claim that six days of driving seems like a waste I can only say that I'd rather drive for three days than wait in even one security line at an airport. Traveling by plane used to be glamorous, or at least fun. Now it's just insulting drudgery. I'm not worried about safety - even after the recent scare - but being treated like dirt for that long and then being packed into a metal tube for several hours with a couple hundred total strangers just doesn't appeal to me.
Anyway, we do the trip, visit with two sets of in-laws, and return. We change drivers roughly every two hours, which makes it possible to go 800 or 900 miles in a day without too much trouble. That's how we can do the entire trip in just three days.
We get to see some really pretty country (Wyoming and eastern Utah come to mind) as well as some staggeringly boring terrain (most of Nebraska). We also see some oddities.
This trip we noted that drivers in central Iowa were the craziest, weaving and speeding like they couldn't die, and that was despite a string of wrecks all across the state after a recent snowstorm. We counted a dozen once we started, and we're certain we passed more than that before we started counting. I guess Iowans simply aren't worried about their personal safety.
But the award for the place where people speed the most still goes to Chicago. 70 MPH on a freeway posted at 55 will get you run over, even when it is snowing. There were fewer crazy drivers in our experience there than in Iowa, but it's clear that every car sold in Chicago comes with a brick on the accelerator pedal. Oddly, the Illinois police seem just fine with this and never seem to pull anyone over for "just" being 15 or 20 MPH over the limit. Go figure.
I have a few other observations that came from this trip as well. I'll post them in coming days.
This time, though, I'll leave you with a picture taken at 75 MPH on I80 in Utah's western salt flats. In places the surface water was frozen and rugged, and in others - like this one - it was almost mirror smooth.
I hope the holidays were good to you and yours, and may 2010 be better for us all than 2009 was.
Gas, hotels, and food for the trip winds up costing a bit over $1000 the way we do it. (It's 2250 miles one way, and while I'd love to do it in a more fuel efficient vehicle, our Honda Element is the one that can haul us, two big dogs, and our stuff. Our 2000 Insight could do it for a less than half the gas used by the Element but there's no room for the dogs in there.) Anyway, we make the trip in three days, weather permitting, and thus stay in two hotels in either direction.
Now, imagine purchasing two tickets from SFO to ORD, renting a car, and kenneling two dogs for that same duration. The total cost is a lot more than driving. Heck, just kenneling costs more than our entire trip.
And for those who claim that six days of driving seems like a waste I can only say that I'd rather drive for three days than wait in even one security line at an airport. Traveling by plane used to be glamorous, or at least fun. Now it's just insulting drudgery. I'm not worried about safety - even after the recent scare - but being treated like dirt for that long and then being packed into a metal tube for several hours with a couple hundred total strangers just doesn't appeal to me.
Anyway, we do the trip, visit with two sets of in-laws, and return. We change drivers roughly every two hours, which makes it possible to go 800 or 900 miles in a day without too much trouble. That's how we can do the entire trip in just three days.
We get to see some really pretty country (Wyoming and eastern Utah come to mind) as well as some staggeringly boring terrain (most of Nebraska). We also see some oddities.
This trip we noted that drivers in central Iowa were the craziest, weaving and speeding like they couldn't die, and that was despite a string of wrecks all across the state after a recent snowstorm. We counted a dozen once we started, and we're certain we passed more than that before we started counting. I guess Iowans simply aren't worried about their personal safety.
But the award for the place where people speed the most still goes to Chicago. 70 MPH on a freeway posted at 55 will get you run over, even when it is snowing. There were fewer crazy drivers in our experience there than in Iowa, but it's clear that every car sold in Chicago comes with a brick on the accelerator pedal. Oddly, the Illinois police seem just fine with this and never seem to pull anyone over for "just" being 15 or 20 MPH over the limit. Go figure.
I have a few other observations that came from this trip as well. I'll post them in coming days.
This time, though, I'll leave you with a picture taken at 75 MPH on I80 in Utah's western salt flats. In places the surface water was frozen and rugged, and in others - like this one - it was almost mirror smooth.
I hope the holidays were good to you and yours, and may 2010 be better for us all than 2009 was.
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